My first article for the new year in The Bulletin is out today, in which I examine a new up-and-coming style: Learn more about Italian-style pilsner in 2020. I tackle the roots and history of the style and review Milano Italian Lager from Boneyard Beer, an authentic rendition.

Dry hopped lagers are not a new phenomenon in the United States; American brewers, including Boneyard, have brewed India pale lagers or IPLs for years. These beers commonly use American or New World hops for their intense citrus, fruity, piney and resinous qualities. Essentially, American IPA qualities are applied to crisp lagers.

In an Italian-style pilsner, however, classic European hop varieties are used, typically German-grown ones in the noble hop family. These types of hops offer up floral, spicy and herbal qualities as a contrast to American varieties. Copious amounts are added during dry hopping to achieve the amplified levels of aroma desired.

I found Milano Italian Lager to be fragrant with floral and herbal aromas that reminded me of mustard seed with a touch of fruitiness similar to currant. It has a big herbal hoppy flavor with a floral note that is reminiscent of chamomile. There’s some spiciness similar to dandelion or other wild greens, yet it still has the drinkability and clean, crispy finish of a quality pilsner.

I really liked that Milano, and I’d highly encourage you to get over to Boneyard and try a pint for yourself. I’m hoping we start seeing more (local) versions of this style pop up soon.