In my latest piece for The Bulletin, which came out last week, I take a look at a perfect summer beer style: Kölsch! I touch on the style and history and offer a few suggestions for local examples of the style.

Unlike most styles that developed in Germany — that is to say, lagers — kölsch is an ale, brewed warm with top fermenting yeast. After fermentation, however, it undergoes a period of cold conditioning, or lagering, which smooths out the flavors and gives it a lager-like drinkability.

It’s a lighter-bodied, pale golden ale that should have brilliant clarity, and the hallmark of the style is its delicate balance of malt, fruitiness and hop character. Hop bitterness should be noticeable but never too high, and floral, spicy, or herbal hop flavors are often present. It finishes smooth, soft, and dry, but never harsh.

Pictured: Sensual Summer Ale, a kölsch-style ale from Redmond’s Initiative Brewing.